Once the turf is established, one deep watering every 10 days is required. This will encourage the roots to chase the moisture deep into the soil profile.

Deep, infrequent watering encourages a healthy root zone and is sufficient for a healthy lawn.
The best time to water is early mornings when there is generally less wind and heat.
Interrupt watering when puddles or run off occurs. The aim of watering is to penetrate the soil.


The first time you mow your new lawn should be 4 weeks after installation.
Keep your mower set at the appropriate height for your particular lawn variety.
Only remove one third of the leaf blade when mowing.
For best results, your new lawn will require weekly mowing in the growing season and fortnightly in the cooler months.
Lawns in shaded areas may be cut at a higher mower setting.


The goal of a fertiliser is to provide the lawn with nutrients needed for optimum growth.
Use a complete fertiliser with an analysis similar to 4–1–2 (Nitrogen–Phosphorus–Potassium) in April and September.
During the warmer months, fertilise your lawn with a high nitrogen fertiliser for a bright green shade.
Fertiliser should be applied approximately 4 times per year rather than in one large application.


Lawn grubs are often active in the warmer months from September to March.
In order to identify if lawn grubs are present, place a damp hessian bag on a section of lawn overnight. If grubs are present they will be on or near the grass leaves.
There are many insecticides available for the control of lawn grubs. Consult us for more information and advice.


Seed heads can become present in your lawn due to birds, neighbours lawns, nearby gardens or the seed heads may have been contained in the previous soil profile. If small weeds appear, eradicate the weed before it develops more seed heads.